Tolma

If you're from the South Caucasus or the Middle East, tolma is a staple of your diet. It's not just something you eat — it has its own category in the food pyramid. And it's not just food. It's family and love, and because it's a social activity, and the preparation takes so long, there's probably some gossip wrapped up in it too. Whether you call it tolma, cabbage rolls, or "stuffed grape leaves" — in which case you're probably eating them out of a can — it's a little piece of joy that gives you far more than just a tickle of your taste buds. If you're completely baffled about how tolma turns from hanging grape leaves into an explosion of heavenly flavor in your mouth, read on. Here are a few tips from one person who makes the best tolma I've ever tried (except yours, of course): my mother. The meaning of grape leaves. The fresher they are, the better they taste, so you can go to anyone from the Middle East. But if you have the option of buying them in a can, make your choice based on color. In that case, the lighter ones are better. Garlic is a must. Make sure you add garlic to liven up the flavor. Depending on how much you're making (and let's be honest, it's probably going to be enough to feed a small village), two cloves should be plenty. Vegetarians eat tolma too. While households in Western Armenia traditionally eat a meatless version in grape leaves (which is called sarma, not necessarily tolma), Eastern Armenians tend to eat it with meat. But if you're a vegetarian, don't despair. Replace the meat with pine nuts, lentils, and even mushrooms will work in addition to "meatless" meat substitutes. It's all about technique. Making tolma doesn't mean just throwing it in a pot. First, the pot should be lined with grape leaves, so the tolma near the bottom doesn't burn. Actually, making them look good to start with is a whole other matter. Once you've prepared the filling, open a grape leaf in your palm and add a tablespoon of your filling to the center. Then start folding them as if you were folding boxes — first the left and right edges, then the top and bottom. They should also be packed tightly at the bottom to support each other's weight. Spices matter. Depending on where you're from, you'll want to use different herbs and spices to make tolma. Turmeric, curry, and sage are just a few suggestions. More goes into the pot than you think In addition to adding water and oil to the pot, take a plate and place it upside down on top of the tolma, so it keeps its shape while cooking for 5 days — I mean 2 hours. To make the flavor very juicy, you can add one or two tablespoons of plain, simple yogurt. Prep work saves lives. Our lives aren't as soft as that requires. You probably don't have 12 hours to devote to talking about your neighbors while wrapping grape leaves. So buy the ingredients and chop your herbs and greens and freeze them in advance — this can be prepared a day before. It gets easier, I swear. Or at least, as my mom says, "It takes a very long time, and a lot of hard work, but when you keep doing it, and keep practicing, it gets easier," she tells me. As always, add a little yogurt or sour cream to your tolma (or a lot). Sometimes you'll find that tolma, just like pizza, tastes better the next day. [embed]https://youtu.be/HrGCXZLlRAU[/embed]